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  I use the stock removal method for making my knives and straight razors. I incorporate six-foot pieces of ATS ~ 34 or other quality steel and grind everything away that doesn't look like a knife or razor. That phrase was borrowed from my good friend, Jim Whitehead, one of the best miniature knife makers I know. He has used it on me since 1995.

   I have had Paul Bos heat treat all of my stainless blades at 59 ~ 61 Rockwell hardness in the past. Returned blades were reworked usually to a hand rubbed 400-grit brush finish as I am not a great fan of mirror polish blades. I purchased an oven and these days I heat treat my own steel as I began working with tool steels like 01.

   My bolsters are almost always made from 416 stainless steel and individually fitted to each knife. I use two 3/32 pins that pass through each set of bolsters and the blade itself. I also use 1/16 inch pin stock on my latest stuff, realizing that 3/32nds wasn’t quite necessary. Not being able to detect these pins means I did it right.

   I taper all of my tangs and almost always put some decorative file work on the top of the spine and run mosaic pins through the scales. Many times I will also include file work on the underside of the handle and top back portion of the blade. There are about six different patterns I prefer to use for this file work. I also recently began engraving some of my work after attending Glendo's engraving school in Emporia, Kansas a while back.

   Anything other than an art knife usually comes with a custom fit leather sheath. They are all completed by hand. A process that takes me about four hours.

Custom Knives
Knife # 3 Knife # 6 Knife # 9 Knife # 12